One of my favorite off-road places to visit is Harquahala Summit, just 90 miles west of Phoenix. At 5700 feet, it's no Mt. McKinley, but it is the highest point in the southwestern quadrant of the state, and as the Harquahala Mountains rise from the relatively flat Sonoran Desert, one quickly becomes aware of how high and isolated it is. And as is often the case with these destinations, you'll likely see few or no people once you leave the interstate highway.
The summit of Harquahala Mountain was chosen as the site for an observatory sponsored by the Smithsonian Institute. Dr. Samuel Pierpont Langley, a pioneer in the study and use of solar energy, advanced the theory in the late 1800's that solar activity might be responsible in determining our weather. Later, his protoge, Dr. Charles G. Abbot, with the backing of the Smithsonian, decided to establish an observatory at the top of the mountain in 1920.
The present day road to the summit isn't the one used when the observatory was established. In fact, there was no road. In the beginning, an hour's drive east from the village of Wenden brought you to a staging area, where everything going to the summit was transferred to burros. From there it was a three hour trek on foot up the steep path to the top. Building materials, instruments, food, everything went up the same way. Even water had to be hauled, though fortunately a source was found just a thousand feet from the top.
The Harquahala Observatory was a solar observatory and as such didn't make use of telescopes. Instead, readings of solar energy were taken with instruments with such unlikely names as pyreheliometers, coelostats, and theodolites, as well as mercury thermometers, all used to take measurements of the sun's energy and radiation. The staff took these readings, recorded them and dispatched them to Washington D.C., where they were analyzed.
Besides transportation, communication with the outside world was difficult. At first, a heliograph was used, but flashing messages to Wenden was slow, and of course a heliograph could only be used on sunny days. Later a two-way radio was tried, but it also proved to be unreliable. Finally a telephone line was strung down the mountain to Wenden using large rocks and cactus to suspend the wire.
Weather was a problem. High winds were frequent, and violent thunder and lightning storms often raked the mountain. In the winter, freezing temperatures were the rule, and snow often dusted the summit. In summer, the combination of high temperatures and high altitude could cause a quick and severe sunburn.
It wasn't all misery. The staff made do, and at one point one of the men even brought his new bride to live on site. The new husband wisely purchased a refrigerator and freighted it to the summit for her use. As well, the feminine touch was much appreciated in the living quarters. Entertainment consisted of croquet and never-ending card games. The radio, which had proven useless for communication, did provide an ear to the outside world.
After just five years, the observatory was abandoned. The remoteness, the transportation issues, and the weather extremes all counted against a long-term facility, and a more suitable location was found in southern California. Today, only the main building survives, along with a cistern used to collect rain water, and a few random foundations. But the mountain still has its uses. An unmanned communication station was constructed by the Central Arizona Project in the 1980's to monitor and control the flow of water through their canals. It is powered by a rather large solar array, as something of an unintended tribute to Drs. Langley and Abbot, who were early pioneers in the use of solar power. The present-day road was in part graded to allow vehicles to the summit for this later project.
The observatory staff were by no means the first people to habit the area. The mountains are rich in minerals, and the area has been mined extensively since the 1800's.
There are a number mine sites to explore, including the Snowflake, the Linda, and my favorite, the Monterey mine. To access the Monterey, you turn west off the main road about four miles from the staging area and through a wash, where there are remains of a stone cabin and an ore-loading area. A steep and rocky shelf road continues up the mountain, where you will find the remnants of a wooden ore bin and the mine entrance. The shelf road is passable, but suitable only for modified high-clearance vehicles. My stock Toyota 4x4 made it part way, but the rough, loose rock surface made me decide that I didn't really want to spend the big bucks fixing the undercarriage, so we chocked it out about a third of the way up, and continued on foot.
The Monterey's main shaft is dug into hard rock, and is open, but there are of course hazards. The first time I went with my son and my neighbor Jim, we ran into a rather angry rattlesnake about 100 feet in, so we decided it was time to leave. This last time we got about the same distance in and started smelling cat urine, so once again we backtracked. I already know how tough I am (not very) and I don't need to corner a bobcat or mountain lion to prove it. We did spot mine cart rails, and someday I hope to revisit and go further in, assuming all the tenants have decided to move on. A cool breeze blowing through the shaft made it clear there was a ventilation shaft somewhere ahead.
The road continues up the hillside far past the main shaft, in a series of sharp switchbacks. What's beyond is for another day, but there's plenty more to explore.
Should you decide to go, be advised there are those who say any high clearance two-wheel-drive vehicle is capable of navigating it. Not so. Though the lower portions can be traversed by a carefully-driven passenger car, by the half-way point you would be unwise to proceed. The road becomes very steep and rutted, and grades the last two miles are in the neighborhood of 20-25%, with plenty of sharp rocks. Wheel placement for the sake of tire survival is critical (Some years ago I went with some friends, and one of our party lost two tires within 15 minutes). The curves are sharp as well. I recommend taking abundant water, extra water, and a little more water, both for you and your vehicle. Watch your temperature gauge. Tell friends where you are going and when you expect to return. Also, remember the weather was extreme in 1920 and it still is. If a lightning storm develops, or it starts to rain, its time to get off the mountain.
Finally, except for a parking lot and a fire grate, there are no facilities at the summit, not even pit toilets, so take whatever supplies you might need if you go, and bring your trash back with you. Camping is permitted if you are so inclined. My son and I spent the night there recently, and it was great. We had the whole place to ourselves.
